Saturday, September 18, 2004

Wine list - White

White

2003 Torres Vina Esmeralda
From: Penedes, Spain
What it’s like: This is a gloriously thirst-quenching blend of moscatel and Gewurztraminer grapes that are full of zingy acidity and floral flavours. The perfect palate-awakening aperitif.
Interestingly: Miguel Torres is a pioneer of modern Spanish wine, being one of the first to plant international grapes such as chardonnay and cabrnet sauvignon.
From: £5.99, Sainsbury’s

2002 Knappstein Riesling
From: Clare Valley, Australia
What it’s like: The Riesling resurgence is taking some time to gather pace but it’s the New World that is leading the way. Oz examples are generally bone dry and Clare Valley is one of their finest cool climate areas. It reeks of lime cordial, and the grape’s fine acidity makes it a good early evening option. Food-wise it’s hugely versatile – shellfish, grilled vegetables – but it comes into it’s own with any type of Asian-style cooking.
Interestingly: Riesling was the UK’s most popular white grape until a shocking collection of German wine in the Seventies.
From: £6.99, Oddbins

2002 Tim Adams Semillon
From: Clare Valley, Australia
Whatit’s like: For those tired of chardonnay, but into rich whites try this Australian Semillon. It’s full of honey, tropical fruits and hazelnuts and hugely good value for money.
Interestingly: Semillon is one of Australia’s hidden treasures and it ages magnificently.
From: £8.50, Tesco

2003 Albarino
From: Pazo Senorans Rias Baixas, Galicia, Spain
What it’s like: The quality of Spanish white wines has soared over the last few years. Out with oxidised piss-coloured ones and in with fresh, zingy bottles from interesting indigenous grapes. Floral and intense, wash it down with some shellfish.
Interestingly: Albarino used to be rarely seen outside of Spain, it is now its most fashionable white grape, gracing all of the best wine lists.
From: £11.50, Liberty Wines – 0207 720 5350

2003 Steeberg Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
From: Constantia, South Africa
What it’s like: Sainsbury’s has done well to get an allocation of this wine as it’s practically impossible to buy in South Africa. Stylistically, it’s like a cross between a full throttle New Zealand sauvignon and a refined sauvignon from the Loire valley in France.
Interestingly: Steenberg is South Africa’s oldest wine estate, established in 1695.
From: £11.99, Sainsbury’s

2001 Gewurztraminer Herrenweg
From: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Alsace, France
What it’s like: If you enjoy a light fresh glass that sits quietly in the background then skip this as Olivier Zind-Humbrecht’s wines are an assault on the senses. Super-ripe concentrated flavours of honey and lychees are somehow balanced by fine minerality and good acidity. Drink this with Thai food; the richness and floral nature of the wine with flavours such as chilli and lemongrass are the ticket to food nirvana.
Interestingly: Zind-Humbrecht divides wine critics; many think his wines are too over the top and unrepresentative of the region. Forget what the killjoys say, he is a wine deity.
From: £17.99, Waitrose

2002 Pouilly-Fuisse Les Vignes Blanches
From: Domaine Cordier, Maconnias, Burgundy, France
What it’s like: Christophe Cordier represents the new face of Burgundy, intent on changing the reputation of a region that often underdelivers. This is a serious full-bodied white full of ripe fruits and spices. Delicious now, but will be even better if you have patience.
Interestingly: Nearly all white Burgundy (including chablis) is made from chardonnay.
From: £18.99, Majestic


2002 Condrieu
From: East Guigal, Rhone valley, France
What it’s like: Condrieu is one of the world’s truly unique wines. The area as a whole is tiny and therefore production hardly registers on the world scale. It’s worth tracking one down, though, as this hedonistic wine is full of peach and tropical aromas.
Interestingly: Condrieu is made from the viognier grape.
From: £19.99, Majestic

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