Red
2002 Casa de la Ermita
From: Jumilla, Spain
What it’s like: Over the next few years we are going to see a lot of cracking value Spanish reds. Jumilla is a hot arid region in the south that until recently turned out little to excite the tatse buds. But now big, juicy, brooding wines full of black fruits are the norm.
Interestingly: This is made from a grape called monastrall known as mourvedre in France and is one of the components of Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
From: £6.49, Oddbins
2003 Julienas
From: Georges Duboeuf, Beaujolais, France
What it’s like: Since the collapse of the Beaujolais Nouveau market this has been a region in crisis. Which is fine for us as if you pick the right wines they’re a bargain. Granted the flowery label is enough to put you off, but once you’ve got over that you’re faced with an explosive, fruity (as in full of fruit, not as in mincing) glass. You can easily serve this slightly chilled.
Interestingly: Beaujolais is one of the few reds able to cope with the heat of a curry.
From: £7.99, Waitrose
2001 D’Arreys Original Grenache/Shiraz
From: D’Arenberg, McLaren Vale, Australia
What it’s like: This is one of Australia’s icon wines, having been made for 61 years. It has got all of the up-front, in-your-face fruit you could want, but none of the sickly sweet confected flavours that some Aussie wines deliver at this price point. It is not the shy, retiring type so serve with equally balls-out fare: big chunks of rare red meat will do the trick.
Interestingly: Shiraz originates from the Rhone Valley in France where it’s known as syrah.
From: £8.69, Oddbins
2003 Vina Leyda Las Brisas Pinot Noir
From: Leyda Valley, Chile
What it’s like: Pinot Noir is notoriously tricky to grow and make, and as a result good cheap pinot barely exists. This is the best value New World pinot about. Fragrant, perfumed and balanced by cool climate acidity.
Interestingly: Pinot is one of the lighter red grapes. If you want to serve some red with fish, it’s your best bet.
From: £8.99, Co-op
1999 Reserve de la Comtesse
From: Pauillac, Bordeaux, France
What it’s like: This is actually the second string range from the famous Chateau Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande house (whose main line costs £80 per bottle). A bit of a mouthful but one of the regions top performers. This cedary, classic Bordeaux gives you a glimpse of the top stuff at a fraction of the price, Give it an hour in the decanter before serving with some good British roast beef.
Interestingly: Bordeaux is split by the river Gironde. Those on the left bank (looking out to the Atlantic) like this are mostly made from cabernet sauvignon. Those on the right side (Pomerol, St Emilion, etc) come mainly from the merlot grape.
From: £17.99, Waitrose
2001 Condado de Haza
From: Alejandro Fernandez, Ribera del Duero, Spain
What it’s like: Ribera del Duero in northern Spain produces some of the country’s premier league wines. Alejandro Fernandez’s flagship bottle, Pesquera, is consistently one of the country’smost expensive. This has similarities to the premium offering, but saves you £75 per bottle. Spicy, rich and complex it will again benefit from a few years in the cellar.
Interestingly: This is made mostly from the same grape as rioja (tempranillo), yet tastes completely different. A great example of how location affects the taste of wine as much as anything else.
From: £11.99, Oddbins
2001 Crozes-Hermitage
From: Alain Graillot, Rhone Valley, France
What it’s like: This is proper wine, none of that polished, softly-soflty New World business. White pepper, herbs and a meaty character dominate. Alain Graillot is the top man in this region and if you have patience a few years in the cellar will reap rewards. Serve with robust red meat dishes.
Interestingly: All reds from the Northern Rhone region are made from the syrah grape (the same as Australia’s shiraz)
From: £11.99, sainsburystoyou.com
2000 Campeleone
From: Lamborghini, Umbria, Italy
What it’s like: When Ferrucio Lamborghini sold his car company he bought a vineyard. His daughter is now in charge and she has assembled a team that makes a heroic wine. A blend of merlot and sangiovese (the grape used for chianti), it is full of black fruits and herbs.
Interestingly: Lamborghini made his money from tractors before cars
From: £30, Sommeliers Choice – 0208 689 9643
Saturday, September 18, 2004
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